Traseul Frontal din Bucura II

[English version below]   De ani de zile ma catar aproape in fiecare iarna in Muntii Retezat pe peretele Bucurei II. Acum doua ierni insa, am devenit interesat de parcurgerea traseului Frontal de pe fața nordica a peretelui. Stiam ca traseul fusese deshis de catre Zsolt Torok si Raul Clepcea in vara anului 2005. Apoi, Zsolt mi-a zis ca nu incercase traseul pe timp de iarna si ca nici nu stia de cineva care sa-l fi incercat. Pentru mine ideea de a incerca acest traseu iarna incepea sa prinda roade dar mi-a luat aproape doi ani până când m-am convins [...]

Traseul Frontal din Bucura II2016-03-31T18:46:40+00:00

Restart

I was pretty pleased with my activity in the mountains in 2015 having done trips from the Alps to Alaska, to Northern Africa in Morocco, and of course, climbing a lot at home in the Carpathians. Although I felt in my best shape after all those climbing days, the end of the year arrived with a few unfulfilled plans and less motivation to push things as hard as before. Changing from "summer mode" to "winter mode" when the actual winter conditions were failing to show up was even more frustrating especially during the holidays when feasting on the Christmas meals was [...]

Restart2020-06-28T15:03:55+00:00

Cuxi Memorial Weekend

In the photo: Cuxi (Alexandru Brăduț Ștefan) on his solo ascent of Matterhorn on August 12, 1982. I recently returned from the Retezat Mountains where I was grateful to attend as I traditionally do, year by year, the Cuxi Memorial Weekend. Even if the weather didn't promisse to be very friendly a large group of friends and colleagues from the Romanian Alpine Club joined the event at the Gentiana Hut. Cuxi (Alexandru Bradut Serban) was a very talented young climber in the early 80's who was tragically killed in an avalanche while descending from Pietrele Ridge not far away from Gentiana [...]

Cuxi Memorial Weekend2020-06-28T15:03:56+00:00

TOPO – Peretele Caltun-Lespezi

Pentru că am fost recent în zona Călțunului (vezi aici) dar și pentru că am devenit curios de istoria mai recentă a ascensiunilor acestui perete am considerat utilă inițiativa de a începe realizarea unui topo al peretelui Căltun-Lespezi. Cautând informații pe internet și apoi întrebând alpiniștii despre care știam că s-au mai cățărat pe acest perete am reușit să trasez peste o fotografie de ansablu liniile traseelor parcurse de ei. Redau mai jos câteva informații generale: Peretele Călțun - Lespezi este localizat în vecinatatea Lacului Călțun din Muntii Fagarasului, prezintă o expunere nordică și culminează în punctul cel mai înalt [...]

TOPO – Peretele Caltun-Lespezi2020-06-28T15:03:56+00:00

BPTL – Peretele Călțunului

Când nu apuci să îți faci un plan bun de weekend din timp și lași totul pe "ultima sută" sunt șanse mari să nu faci mare lucru. Dar, se mai întâmplă uneori, dacă se mai aliniază un pic și planetele, să iasă un weekend super fain. La mine totul "s-a organizat" cam așa: Coechipierul ''Suna telefonul vineri pe la prânz: "Dude, ce faci în weekend? Ai chef să ne "rupem" pe ceva traseu?" Era, evident... Alex Prigoană. Obiectivul Tot Alex: "Hai să facem Peretele Călțunului! Oricum vroiai să-l faci, așa că, hai să mergem mâine! Vremea e bună, le putem [...]

BPTL – Peretele Călțunului2020-06-28T15:03:56+00:00

Back to the old playground

Years ago, during my studies in Cluj-Napoca, I chose to attend a two days local climbing camp. I can't really remember what exactly drove me to try it, but I am sure I was as a curious person back then as I am right now. I couldn't learn everything about climbing safety and techniques that weekend. What I remember is the cold weather, receiving so much information in a very short period of time and a lot of hardware around me I had never seen before. At the end of the climbing camp everything was a mess in my head, [...]

Back to the old playground2020-06-28T15:03:56+00:00

First Ice Climbing & Dry Tooling for 2015

As I've almost forgotten the last year's winter climbs with freezing belays, spindrifts, screaming barfies, wet ropes and cold metallic carabiners dangling around the waist, I felt the need to experience all these feelings again on my first weekend in the mountains in 2015. Although climate change may have delayed the start of the ice climbing season by a few weeks mostly everywhere (compared to last year), this last week the temperatures dropped below 20 degrees Celsius in Cluj. The thought came to my mind: let's go check the waterfall from Rachitele... it might have frozen! And yes, on Saturday I [...]

First Ice Climbing & Dry Tooling for 20152020-06-28T15:03:56+00:00

Looking for the winter

Winter was about to settle in the Carpathians and I was keen to taste some climbing somewhere close to home. The weather forecast wasn`t very promissing so we chose the Retezat Mountains where I knew we could try some climbing routes regardless the weather. We were a little disappointed to see there was no snow lower in the valley. There was no snow in the forest either, so we enjoyed an approach along the Pietrele Valley filled with lots of green grass and wet boulders. Higher up we noticed the grey clouds covering the peaks and we saw that winter [...]

Looking for the winter2020-06-28T15:03:56+00:00

The Lizard

Cheile Bicazului, The Lizard 280m, 7 lc, 7+ impus și A1 (pentru noi) In 20 iulie am parcurs in echipa Alex Prigoana - Mihnea Prundeanu traseul 'The Lizard” in Piatra Bardosului (Cheile Bicazului), singura linie de spituri din acest perete cu multa istorie pentru alpinismul romanesc. Traseul masoara 280m, are 7 lc, 7+ impus si A1 (pentru noi). Ca nota generala, este un traseu bine asigurat dar cu unele probleme, cea mai importanta fiind pericolul constant de a da pietre jos peste spectatori sau peste tarabe (in special in lungimea 6). Doua lungimi sunt comune cu traseul Armata iar una [...]

The Lizard2020-06-28T15:03:57+00:00

Hornul Coamei

Muntii Bucegi, Valea Galbinele, Hornul Coamei Caminul Alpin din Busteni imi este din nou gazda la sfarsit de saptamana. Suntem multi dar reusim sa ne organizam in trei echipe: Mihai si Mihaela vor sa parcurga Creasta Costila-Galbinele; Stefan, Serghei si Vladut in echipa de trei pe Hornul Coamei, iar eu si Claudiu, desi initial paream hotarati sa incercam Furcile lui Baticu, preferam ulterior tot Hornul Coamei. Sambata dimineata harnicul Claudiu ne da trezirea la ora 6, iar noi ceilalti, cei mai priceputi pierde "iarna" facem ce facem si nu reusim sa plecam din camin mai devreme de ora 8:45. Urcarea [...]

Hornul Coamei2018-01-23T20:01:55+00:00
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Mihnea Prundeanu. Alpinist. Geographer. IFMGA Mountain Guide.

I love the mountains and the sports. I also love to travel, to discover the beauty of nature, to meet new people and learn about different cultures. My semi-nomadic lifestyle revolves around my family and my two passions: alpinism and geography, that have blended so well together. I believe that authentic alpinism means exploration, discovery of new ways of getting to the top, minimalist, fast and clean ascents and these are the values I try to reflect in my personal projects.

Mihnea Prundeanu. IFMGA Guiding with Alpine Tours.

My passion for the mountains started when I was a child when I would often make small excursions around the city or go camping with the scouts. Since then I visited or guided expeditions in the Alps, Himalayas, Andes and other remote areas. When I am not involved in personal projects I enjoy sharing my passion for the mountains with those wishing to discover it. To get in touch, you can write at mihnea@mihneaprundeanu.com.

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