[EN/RO]Walker Spur (ED1, 6a, IV, 90°, 1200m). The hunt for a new classic and famous climb (Alps' Classic & Famous) started off surprisingly well. Is there an alpinist not wishing to climb the Walker Spur in Grandes Jorasses once in a lifetime? Since 2015 when I climbed the Croz Spur together with Alex Prigoană I wanted to return as soon as possible to the North Face of Grandes Jorasses because I especially enjoyed the atmosphere, the size of the wall and the climbing here. I did not start with a clear objective to climb a certain route, but I [...]
[EN/RO] Frendo Spur (D+, III, 5c, 80°, 1200m) is a classic climb straight above Chamonix, a rocky buttress that stands out to the left of Aiguille du Midi. It is a real alpine climb, complex and quite long (approx. 1000 m from base to the top) with rock climbing sections and towards the end with steep snow and ice slopes. It doesn't have high technical sections, however the engagement, the route finding and the need to move fast and efficient in exposed terrain makes it highly complex. It is seen by many as good training or a test before [...]
Despre acest traseu auzim mai rar, nu are foarte mult renume si pare sa fie deseori uitat printre multe alte trasee vecine care parcurg spectaculosul versant nordic al lui Aiguille du Midi. Linia sa însă, urmareste cel mai evident și direct culoar care urcă spre stația finală a cabinei cocoțate în vârful acului de la Midi.
[RO/EN] Anul acesta am petrecut mai mult timp pe schiuri decat o fac de obicei. Recunosc, nu este pasiunea mea numarul 1 si in ultimii ani am cam neglijat-o asa ca sezonul acesta de iarna m-am hotarat sa-i acord mai multa atentie si exercitiu.
The Heckmair Route – The North Face of the Eiger The rain was pouring down in Chamonix when we returned from the Grandes Jorasses climb. We were tired, with our feet soaked wet but felt happy. We really enjoyed drinking a beer in the middle of the rain in front of Maison de la Montagne. The next 3 days we hanged around the valley, we met with our friends, slacklined, ate pizza and enjoyed more beer. Another good weather window was approaching and we started making plans again for another climb. Too many possibilities for interesting climbs or just too [...]
The Croz Spur on The North Face of Grandes Jorasses This spring I managed to take another step forward in my project called "Alpine Adventures" and returned to Chamonix with the goal in mind to climb bigger routes than I usually climb in the area and something more attractive and challenging. I partnered up again with Alex Prigoana who has already become the most constant and like-minded climbing partner for "scarry, bold and unplanned style" climbing. I am pretty sure we both had the same main climbing objective in mind but neither of us would have said it out loud, [...]
I have been planning for a couple of years a short return in the winter season in the Austrian Alps. As this is a favourite destination for my skier friends, I wanted to look for far more interesting ways to spend a few days in these mountains besides skiing. In my case, this time ICE seemed to be the main attraction and in Austria there is plenty of ICE.... I chose to meet the Ice Giants. And the best place to do that is near Bad Gastein, in Anlauftal valley. I joined forces with Alex Sava (climber and photographer) and [...]
Dragi prieteni, Clubul Alpin Universitar Cluj vă invită marți 03 februarie 2015 începând cu orele 20:00 la Casa Tiff, strada Universității nr.6 să urmăriți o compilație de prezentări foto și video despre trasee parcurse de alpiniști clujeni, ai clubului nostru, în Masivul Mont Blanc. La poalele Mont Blanc-ului, se află pitorescul orășel de munte Chamonix, așa-zisă capitală mondială a alpinismului. Acest loc de întâlnire preferat de toți oamenii de munte este și punctul de pornire pentru sute sau chiar mii de trasee de alpinism pentru toate gusturile și de toate dificultățile. Avem plăcerea să vă prezentăm o mică parte din [...]
Mary Poppins - North face of Aiguille du Midi (Col du Plan) - 700 m, TD+, 5 Beeing back in Chamonix after a short climb of Mont Blanc with my girlfriend, I was waiting for good weather and suitable conditions for some rock routes. But this summer season was quite unusual with strong winds up on the mountains, cold temperatures and fresh snow on the faces. Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean had climbed a few days earlier the Frendo Spur in serious winter conditions and other climbers were saying there was good ice on the north face of Grand Jorasse. Having [...]
Padurea Berdorf, trasee de escalada de la 5 la 8C+ (cotatie franceza) De aproximativ o luna si jumatate nu am mai iesit la munte sau la escalada afara, in natura. Stand pentru o perioada in vestul Germaniei posibilitatea de a ajunge la munte foarte usor nu exista. Dupa cateva sesiuni de catarare impreuna cu prietenii in sala din Eindhoven (Olanda) si Wuperttal (Germania) am hotarat sa profitam de o duminica cu vreme buna pentru a iesi la stanca. Cautand pe internet o zona de catarare cat de cat aproape am gasit o padure langa localitatea Berdorf din Luxemburg in care [...]