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Frendo Spur, Aiguille du Midi

[EN/RO] Frendo Spur (D+, III, 5c, 80°, 1200m) is a classic climb straight above Chamonix, a rocky buttress that stands out to the left of Aiguille du Midi. It is a real alpine climb, complex and quite long (approx. 1000 m from base to the top) with rock climbing sections and towards the end with steep snow and ice slopes. It doesn't have high technical sections, however the engagement, the route finding and the need to move fast and efficient in exposed terrain makes it highly complex. It is seen by many as good training or a test before [...]

Frendo Spur, Aiguille du Midi2020-06-28T15:03:53+00:00

The place to be! [3]

[EN/RO below]On our last climb attempt in the Torre Valley we noticed huge crevasses opened, snow bridges collapsed, some ice lines disappeared and no more rime snow on the granite faces. Another lesson learned: the conditions change extremely fast in Patagonia. Maybe there will be good conditions soon for rock climbing routes, I thought and started looking for some interesting routes to climb. Cerro Torre was obviously put on hold for now because there was simply no weather window long enough to even attempt to start a climb like that (we needed at least 3 days in a row). But [...]

The place to be! [3]2020-06-28T15:03:54+00:00

Window of opportunities? [2]

[EN/RO below] Sustained ice chimney on Exocet | Aguja Standhardt We had plenty of things to do in the small village of El Chalten so we didn't get bored waiting for good weather conditions. Short bouldering sessions in the forest outside the village, repairing our broken tent, searching for the right food to bring in the mountains, meeting local climbers and talking about routes and climbs, testing the best local beer were normal daily activities. A higher atmospheric pressure was predicted to arrive across the massif on the New Year's Eve so we got ready to hike up to Niponino [...]

Window of opportunities? [2]2020-06-28T15:03:54+00:00

Patagonia: an alpine trip down South [1]

[EN/RO below] I don't find it hard to explain why I chose to travel to the “end of the world” to climb mountains. In the climbing world there are a few hot spots that attract alpinists and climbers for their mountain beauty, challenges and history. Among Himalaya, the Alps or Alaska, Patagonia stands out for its unique landscape, its tower shaped peaks and some of the harshest weather conditions on the planet. Lacking high altitudes, these mountains are still not easy to approach. Climbing is steep and mostly technical, the terrain is wild, glaciated and sometimes complicated and on top of all the weather forces you to [...]

Patagonia: an alpine trip down South [1]2020-06-28T15:03:54+00:00

Eugster Direct. Aiguille du Midi

Despre acest traseu auzim mai rar, nu are foarte mult renume si pare sa fie deseori uitat printre multe alte trasee vecine care parcurg spectaculosul versant nordic al lui Aiguille du Midi. Linia sa însă, urmareste cel mai evident și direct culoar care urcă spre stația finală a cabinei cocoțate în vârful acului de la Midi.

Eugster Direct. Aiguille du Midi2020-06-28T15:03:54+00:00

Yosemite Trip. [3] The Nose

Lucrul pe care l-am avut în comun cu Alex și Vasile în această excursie a fost dorința de a urca acest traseu. Acest lucru pentru mine era încă evident de acasă chiar dacă a fost mai mult sau mai puțin comunicat. The Nose este clar cel mai renumit traseu de perete din Yosemite, poate chiar din SUA. Este legendar pentru perseverența lui Warren Harding de a-l urca în premieră, dar mai ales pentru toate ascensiunile celebre care au urmat și care au schimbat puțin câte puțin stilul cățărării, evoluția echipamentului și performanțele alpiniștilor moderni. Dar nu această parte cu renume [...]

Yosemite Trip. [3] The Nose2020-06-28T15:03:54+00:00

Yosemite Trip. [2] Lumea Verticalelor.

Suntem de mai bine de o săptămână în Yosemite și încă încercăm să ne adaptăm la pulsul lucruilor de aici. Amploarea pereților de granit de aici și energia locului îți dau impresia că intri într-o altă lume. Și cam așa este de fapt. Venind dinspre vest am părăsit zonele uscate ale Californiei și am ajuns destul de brusc într-o zonă montană plină de verdeață iar apoi într-o vale închisă, străjuită de imenși pereți. Odată intrat în parcul național ești parcă într-un mic stat în stat în care legile naturii par să fie mai presus decât celelalte iar rangerii reprezintă autoritatea [...]

Yosemite Trip. [2] Lumea Verticalelor.2020-06-28T15:03:54+00:00

Yosemite Trip. [1] La drum

După fiecare ieșire la munte sau în natură mintea continuă să caute următoarele locuri de descoperit sau următoarele provocări de depășit. O nouă vizită pe teritoriul Statelor Unite a fost un gând mai vechi, apoi a devenit un plan și în final s-a transformat în realitate. De această data nu am mai ales Alaska ci câteva din celelalte atracții alpinistice celebre de pe acest continent (căci slavă domnului au destule). Yosemite Valley este o perlă a naturii cunoscută în toată lumea iar pentru comunitatea alpină este un loc reprezentativ în care generații de alpiniști au impus noi standarde, au inventat [...]

Yosemite Trip. [1] La drum2018-01-19T18:47:45+00:00

Tre Cime di Lavaredo – Hasse Brandler

Almost every time I headed for the Alps I drove past or even through the Dolomites on the way to bigger mountains like Mont Blanc or the Swiss Alps. Last year I stopped for a few days in Arco, an Italyan climbing Mecca, just at the Southern edge of the Dolomites and I felt very attracted to the beauty of the place and the richness of the area. I knew that somewhere North, behind the high ridges of Dolomiti di Brenta lies even a greater paradise of rock walls and towers. The subconscious mind of  a climber had already started [...]

Tre Cime di Lavaredo – Hasse Brandler2020-06-28T15:03:55+00:00
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Mihnea Prundeanu. Alpinist. Geographer. IFMGA Mountain Guide.

I love the mountains and the sports. I also love to travel, to discover the beauty of nature, to meet new people and learn about different cultures. My semi-nomadic lifestyle revolves around my family and my two passions: alpinism and geography, that have blended so well together. I believe that authentic alpinism means exploration, discovery of new ways of getting to the top, minimalist, fast and clean ascents and these are the values I try to reflect in my personal projects.

Mihnea Prundeanu. IFMGA Guiding with Alpine Tours.

My passion for the mountains started when I was a child when I would often make small excursions around the city or go camping with the scouts. Since then I visited or guided expeditions in the Alps, Himalayas, Andes and other remote areas. When I am not involved in personal projects I enjoy sharing my passion for the mountains with those wishing to discover it. To get in touch, you can write at mihnea@mihneaprundeanu.com.

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